Visit to Ukraine - Infusion Pump Project for Kiev

Elspeth and I had decided to visit Cracow in Poland on the way to Kiev so we flew in from Katowice on Wednesday night ahead of the main party.  Our flight arrived at 23.30 and we were met by Sergey and his son, a Rotarian and a Rotaractor, who drove us into the centre of Kiev - and then out the other side to our hotel!  We had travelled for an hour and appeared to be in the middle of nowhere when we were left at 1.30am with no Ukrainian money, no language, no map, no idea where we were - and no coat hangers!  You might say we were out of our comfort zone!

Next morning I ventured outside to find we really were in the middle of nowhere!  The lady owner took us down to the basement where we had fried eggs and two pieces of bread with salami for breakfast.  When I tried to explain we had no money, she pointed out a really big supermarket nearby where there was a Bancomat (ATM), so we headed across the wasteland to it.  It was huge! It sold everything from water to car tyres and, having got some cash, we happily passed a couple of hours wandering round.

At 5.30, Sergey returned to pick us up and take us into Kiev to the meeting with Kiev Central RC and our fellow Rotarians from Pirmasens and Northampton, arriving straight from the airport.  Over a Ukrainian supper, President Rostyslav Lukach welcomed us and we were each asked to make a short presentation by way of introduction.  Mominul Hoque (who many will remember from his previous visit to us) interpreted as best he could, but Michael Pearson spoke for too long without pause, causing Jorgen to admonish him!  The usual rounds of toasts followed.  We then took the coach back to the hotel where we were asked to pay cash up front for three nights.  Lesley refused because she might not have wanted to stay there for three nights!  Elspeth and I gave Derek, Ian, Evan and Isabel a quick guided tour of the supermarket - mainly for vodka but Ian was excited to but some new windscreen wipers!  After a nightcap beer in the hotel basement, off to bed.

Friday morning breakfast was fried meat pancakes.  To avoid Lesley starving, we managed to persuade Madame to provide her with some fried eggs but she unfortunately brought the salami as well!

We were then taken by bus to the Cancer Hospital in Kiev. We went into three buildings before we found the right one. (Most unusual to find a Bancomat by the door - is Ukrainian healthcare so expensive?) We were shown into a meeting hall where there were twenty boxes with three of the infusion pumps on display. They each had a "plaque" on the side explaining that they had been donated by the three clubs. Prof. Stakhovsky, Chief of Department of Onco-urology, spoke about the history of the department and Professor Yuri Grinevich, Head of Department of Clinical Immunology, spoke of the work of the hospital. They both expressed their gratitude for our gift and explained how much it would benefit the treatment of their patients. Michel Pearson spoke about the project and the cooperation of the three Clubs. He also introduced Alexej Decker from Braun who had supplied the pumps, with additional financial assistance, and who expressed keenness to support other similar projects in Ukraine. After official group photographs, Michael signed all the necessary documentation for the handover. The planned visit around the Children's Cancer Hospital was sadly cancelled due to an outbreak of chickenpox.

We left the hospital (after I had given Andrew a crash course in Ukrainian ATM use!) and went into the centre of Kiev to be met by Rotaractors who commence a walking tour of various sites.  We were greatly impressed by their knowledge, enthusiasm and ability to speak very good English.  We visited (externally) the Golden Gate, St Sophia's Cathedral, St Michael's Monastery and St Andrew's Church, all truly stupendous buildings.  We were all anticipating lunch and were constantly advised it was only ten minutes away!  We walked down Andrew's Descent, a steep and winding cobbled street full of stalls selling all manner of souvenirs and general tat!  Finally at the bottom, in a square by the University, we entered a self-service restaurant for lunch.

Picture the scene where fourteen Rotarians, four of which were Germans, are being asked to decide what to have! Michael and I, together with the Rotaractors, took up the challenge to get food for everyone.  We started with borscht - vegetable soup with beetroot served with pampushkas, a kind of bread.  That seemed to go down well!  We were then brought glasses of a strange looking drink, which turned out to be kvass, a bread beer.  Jorgen refused to believe bread could be turned into beer but a Google search confirmed it.  It also said it was non-alcoholic by Russian standards!!  To follow, we selected dumplings with sour cream for some and Chicken Kiev and potatoes for the rest. There were no arguments and each was enjoyed. (It should be noted that Chicken Kiev is not actually from Ukraine; it was invented in Moscow!)  I was inveigled into paying for all the food, and then collecting local currency from everyone. It was actually quite painless!

Refreshed, we exited and, after a quick visit to a bank for some people to exchange money (Derek attempted to exchange his Singapore Dollars and Indian Rupees - surprisingly unsuccessfully) we then enjoyed a one stop trip on the Metro (<20p).  A trip on the funicular back up to St Andrew's Church was next, and nearby we had a hilltop view of Kiev.

A stroll through the park brought us down to Independence Square where we stopped for coffee and cake before going to a concert at the National Philarmonia.  It is a small concert hall, almost baroque in its beautiful style, and the music was excellent.  The highlight was a virtuoso piano performance  by a Georgian female pianist of a Saint Saens piano concerto.

After the concert (now 21.00) we were marched another extended ten minutes to a restaurant for supper.  After some confusion about whether the menu was to be determined by the restaurant, it was agreed that they would supply the first course and we would individually order a main course.  We ordered wine and vodka - the latter also coming by the bottle.  The service was interminably slow, resulting in another round of toasts and more vodka.  When the main courses finally arrived at midnight, many on our table received unexpected surprises!  In particular, several of us got a dish called Cossack's Luck - think Baked Alaska but containing a fillet of salmon, pineapple and cheese!!!! We were so tired that we chose to eat it rather than wait another hour for the correct dishes!

On Saturday, few people braved the breakfast before we set off for Trypylla.  This is a site some way to the south of Kiev and as we neared it, it was like an apocalyptic scene - rundown factories and slag heaps on the edge of a man-made lake formed from the Dnipro River.  The Trypylla site housed a museum based around the archaeological discoveries of a civilisation 8,000 years old. The deputy director took us round the small exhibition explaining in great detail all the items and the culture of these people.  After nearly two hours, his conjectures, effectively saying that they were the origin of civilisation in Europe, became increasingly unbelievable.  (Did they really understand that life begins with the division of cells?)

It was a relief to escape to the central hall, where we found long tables groaning with food and drink.  We were plied with vodka and cognac with the food and again constant toasts were made.  I was seated next to Ludmila, a redoubtable lady from Kiev Centre RC, who considered it her duty to fill both my plate and my vodka glass at every opportunity.  As she only spoke French, I christened her Maman!  

There was then an auction to raise funds for a kitchen machine for the hospital. A renowned local artist donated a painting and Andrew acted as auctioneer. It seemed that our Club was the main participant and Derek became the lucky owner of the picture. He and Ian had to pool their resources to pay for it! Only then did we remind Derek that he had to get it home. His plan to remove it from the frame and roll it was dashed when he discovered his "old master" was still wet (it was an oil). As a result, he will now have to pay for it to be delivered when dry!

A second auction was for a beaded flower picture which had been made by a cancer sufferer and donated by the Rotaractors to fund one of their projects.  This time I was the "lucky" bidder. (I donated it back the following day, realising  that it would be very difficult to get it back home without damage.) The third item was another print where everyone made a cash donation and signed the back of it.  The draw was then won by Wolfgang Renz!

There followed singing and dancing, much of which I cannot remember since the vodka had taken effect!  We were given gifts by our hosts and were taken back to our hotel.

Sunday, we were all packed and off at 9.00. After a brief stop at St Volodymyr's Cathedral to witness a stand up service and see the amazing paintings, we arrived at Pechersk Lawra, a monastery complex including a cave system where monks still live and work.  Before the guided tour, we had time to visit an exhibition of miniatures - really tiny models and drawings viewed through a magnifying lens - and a cup of coffee (which was something which seems not to have been considered at any time in our three day programme!).  During the tour, we entered one of the churches to find a wedding taking place.  A visit to the caves was abandoned due to long queues. Lunch was at a folk restaurant where we again were offered bread beer and vodka.  More toasts before the goodbyes as all bar Elspeth and I headed for the airport (we stayed another night in the centre of Kiev).

My reflections on the trip are several.  First, the reason for it was firmly brought home with the formal presentation of the infusion pumps at the hospital.  I felt very proud and humble (is it possible for both?) to be part of such a collaborative project which will clearly make a significant difference.

Secondly, the true friendship of our hosts.  Whilst we may at times have been exasperated by the changes in the programme, or the zany idea to house us in a hotel miles from the centre, they were generous and kind, grateful and caring.  Both Rotarians and Rotaractors demonstrated clearly the ideals of Rotary.

Thirdly, is the outstanding beauty of Kiev.  It is quite amazing that the Ukrainians chose to rebuild many of the wonderful buildings destroyed by the Russians, and the golden cupolas and decorated interiors are vivid memories.

Finally, the feeling of vulnerability when we arrived!  I don't think Elspeth will ever let me forget that experience!!

It has been our first visit to Eastern Europe and we have been very impressed with both Poland and Ukraine.  Stunning architecture, friendly people, impossible language and unusual food!  We shall be back.

Do pobachennya

Brian May
Kreschatyk Hotel, Kiev
24 October 2010

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