Thursday 6 May 2021 Travels in North Sudan - Peter Ireland Chat @ 18.45 meet @ 19.00
TRAVELS IN NORTHERN SUDAN
Given the extent of travel restrictions we have endured for more than a year, it was tantalizing to hear from Rotarian Peter Ireland from the Rotary Club of Callander about his travels (in 2017) in Northern Sudan. Not, perhaps, a tourist destination that first comes to mind when thinking of a holiday; but Peter explained that his enthusiasm is for places off the beaten track which have interesting history. And, as Peter indicated: ‘Sudan fulfills both criteria in spades.’
Peter reminded members that Sudan has a fascinating history stretching back before 2,500 BC, with its borders and area of authority shifting as different regimes rose and fell. As evidence of this, Peter instanced particularly the presence of Egyptian influenced pyramids and Roman remains.
Peter’s tour started in Khartoum, capital of Northern Sudan, where the White Nile and the Blue Nile converge. Sudan’s (relatively) more recent history is recorded here by a memorial to General Gordon who was killed when his adversary, the Mahdi seized Khartoum in 1885. Subsequently, Peter explained, it was General Kitchener who defeated the Khalifa (the Mahdi’s successor) at the battle of Ondurman in 1898 when 12,000 of the Sudanese troops were killed by the superior firepower of the joint British/Egyptian force of which only 47 died.
Leaving Khartoum, the group that Peter was touring with headed north to Old Dongola where they visited huge beehive tombs dated between the fifth and 14th centuries. They were delighted to be able to visit excavations where they were allowed to photograph wonderfully preserved ancient frescoes. It was there that they experienced camping in tents, with very limited facilities, after which Peter said “thankfully our accommodation improved, culminating in a wonderful Nubian Guest House at Karima”. From Old Dongola the group travelled to Soleb to see the tomb of Amen Hotep the Third, and then to Jebel Barkal where they visited the Temple of Amun. At MeroĆ«, now listed as a World Heritage site, the group was intrigued by an collection of some 200 pyramids, smaller than those to be seen in Egypt, but, nonetheless extraordinary.
The tour included a cruise on the Nile, a visit to a Bedouin family and, a particularly vivid recollection for Peter, a camel ride that he approached with considerable trepidation. However, in the event, this proved a challenge that he thoroughly enjoyed.
President-elect Russell Wheater thanked Peter for a fascinating insight into a country that, in all likelihood, not many members were likely to visit.