We were sorry to leave Tengboche this morning. With the jagged snow-covered mountains behind and the wonderful monastery or ‘gompa’ nearby we’d have liked to spend more time here but we had to press on. We’re half way to Base Camp now and pretty tired but we’re looking forward to our rest day tomorrow in Dingboche. The head lama at Tengboche blessed the 1953 British ascent expedition. A pity we don’t qualify. We could do with all the help we can get.
The Everest Memorial
But we were soon chatting away walking downhill through the most amazing birch and rhododendron forest as is if was a walk in the Dales. Unfortunately we soon had to start climbing and we crossed a steel box bridge over a roaring river. Then more climbing, some of it in steps cut into the rock, until eventually we reached Pangboche which is the last major settlement on the trail that is inhabited all year round. On the way we passed a man who seemed to have the world on his shoulders. How one person can carry so much at such altitude is beyond me – quite remarkable. A bit more soberingly, we passed a monument to those who have died on Everest. We looked at it but didn’t linger.
Suddenly there were no more trees – just dry, boulder-strewn terrain where there wasn’t even always a path. Gradually we made our way up onto a low ridge and suddenly had a stunning view of Dingboche in the valley bottom. We’ll be there for two nights and it’s going to be pretty cold and windy, with night-time temperatures below zero even in summer. I’m glad my wife persuaded me to pack my long johns.
Luke N Brightside
Communications Officer
Well, they’re getting to know a bit more about Himalayan walking and to be fair most of them are pretty cheerful. We showed them the Everest memorial. They were a bit quieter after that. I found out today that one of them is actually walking with a replacement knee! He pretended to be looking at the rhododendrons but I think he just wanted a rest. He says he had it done especially for this walk. If he gets there it could be the first artificial knee at Base Camp.
Sherpa Dowting
Head Porter
more Everest, but not as you know it !
more A summary of our virtual Everest trek
more Back At Base Camp, What A Relief !
more Despite everything our President has made it to the top of the world.
more Onward and upwards to the south col and camp four.
more About our friend in Nepal, Major Lil
more Held back again.
more Camp 3 rest day.
more Ever upwards !
more Here we are at Camp two.
more In the valley of silence.
more Not much to see through the whiteout.
more Climbing the Ice Fall
more A taste of the real thing.
more Settling into base camp
more Finally reaching base camp.
more On to Gorak Shep
more Getting up amongst the real Himalayas
more Our yaks on the trail.
more Onwards and upwards
more Leaving Namche
more A rest day in Namche
more We move on towards Namche
more Arriving at Luckla Airport
back We are staging a virtual climb of Mount Everest to raise money for Wellspring, Carers Resource and Covid relief. All the previous daily blogs can be read here.