Tower Hamlets Street Markets

Real Eastenders: a guide to East End markets by Sharn Gill

A man stands on the side of the road holding a set of 3 coasters in his hands - one marked - and a wad of £20 notes. A crowd of people gather round him, with their twenties in their hands ready to catch the marked coaster as he speedily whizzes them about on the makeshift table in front of him. One punter has won £20 (quite rare) as others readily lose £20, £40 or £60 in one go.

Walking a little further down, a trader catches one woman attempting to shoplift and shouts, "Oi, get away from there NOW", the woman jumps back and loudly exclaims that she was just looking and she continues to declare her innocence to passers-by.

This is life in an East End street market, the bargain hunters paradise. As you walk through, the traders stand on the sidelines, eyeing you up hungrily. "Alright darlin', anyfink you like, a fiver", "we got a sale on, today only sweetheart", and "look I can't go any lower darlin', you're practically stealin' it off me at this price as it is".

What more could you ask for - atmosphere, diversity, friendliness, bespoke designs, bargains and, of course, character!

Brick Lane Market

Brick Lane, Cheshire Street, Sclater Street, E1

Nearest Tube: Shoreditch

Open: Sun - 8am -2pm

Brick Lane, as its name suggests, was once the site for brick manufacturers as well as the location for beer brewing. The Truman Black Eagle Brewery was founded in 1669 and the building can still be seen there today, housing designer and artist studios, workshops and bars. By the 18th century, Brick Lane had developed into a market for livestock and produce. Today, this has been replaced with stalls selling items that are kitsch and practical - it seems anything can be sold here! If you are looking for some obtuse item, then look no further - try broken mini award busts!.

What to find there: Clothing, footwear, household durables, handbags/luggage, bric-a-brac, second-hand furniture, rug, wallpaper and food.

Billingsgate Fish Market

Trafalgar Way, Isle of Dogs, E14 Nearest

Tube: West End Quay (DLR)

Open: Tue-Sat - 5am - 8:30am. Sun - 6am - 8am (shellfish market only).

www.billingsgate-market.org.uk

Until the 16th century, Billingsgate sold corn, coal, iron, wine, salt, pottery, fish and miscellaneous goods. But then an act was passed to allow a free and open market for all types of fish and by the 19th century, the handling of fish had increased. Billingsgate traded fish exclusively at Lower Thames Street for 900 years before moving to West India Docks in 1982. With over 65 traders to cater all tastes and fish imported from all over the world, it is still one of the best places to buy fish.

What to find there: Live eels from New Zealand, salted cod, salmon from Norway, lobsters from Canada, cured and smoked fish, fish soups and cooked shellfish ready to eat.

Columbia Road Flower Market

Columbia Road, E1

Nearest Tube: Shoreditch

Open: Sun - 8am-2pm

The flower market bloomed into life in the 19th Century. Originally, Colombia Road was supposed to be a market square, providing cheap food and fish from the coastal ports. However this idea failed, due to objections from traders and a rail link that did not materialise. Eventually the stalls selling general goods moved to Petticoat Lane and the emergence of Sunday market trading bought about cut flowers and plants. By 1927, Columbia Road specialised in flowers, and today you can find up to 52 plant stalls and 30 or so more garden stores and cafes. Today it's more popular than ever with over 1,000 green fingered visitors visiting every Sunday.

What to find there: Herbs, bedding plants, garden shrubs, houseplants and cut flowers and garden accessories

Petticoat Lane Market

Middlesex Street and Wentworth Street, E1

Nearest Tube: Liverpool Street Open: Mon-Fri & Sun 9am - 2pm

This is perhaps one of the oldest (at 400-years old) of all the London's markets. Its name derives from traders from France, who came to London to sell petticoats and lace. It was during Queen Victoria's reign that the name of the market and the lane was changed to Middlesex Street, but the old name has stuck.

It continues to focus heavily on clothes and leather goods, and from Monday to Friday, the market only operates from Wentworth Street and is not altogether that big or impressive. However, come Sunday and it's a different story! The stalls are better, the traders eager to bargain, it's busier and there are a good many stalls there. My favourite was the shoe stall selling the beaded flip-flops and mules at half of what you would pay in high street stores.

What to find here: High street trends, footwear, handbags, CD's, bed linen, hats, toys, London souvenirs, fruit & veg. and leather goods.

Romford Road Market

Mile End, E3

Nearest Tube: Mile End

Open: Wed, Fri & Sat - 8:30am - 5:30pm

Romford Road was famed for its breweries and pubs in the 18th and 19th Century and it was also the best place to find a bargain - even the Queen visited. More recently, when the north side of the market was being dug up, an unexploded World War II artillery shell was discovered and safely dealt with - that area of London was heavily bombed.

What to find here: Books, clothing, fish, flowers, bread, bed linen.

Smithfield Market

Smithfield, EC1 Nearest

Tube: Barbican

Open: 3am - 8am

As a meat market, it should not come as a surprise that witches and traitors were burned alive here as late as 1650. This was also the site where Queen Mary I burnt 300 Protestants at the stake - earning her reputation as "Bloody Mary".

Smithfield has traded Meat since the 12th Century and although the name was changed to London Central Meat Market, the name of Smithfield stuck (taken from "smooth field" - the site it was built on). The building underwent refurbishment in 1868 by Horace Jones - who also designed Leadenhall and Billingsgate Market. Today, even with this new smarter look, if you make it past the smell and the blood, you can have a pint waiting for you as pubs open from 6am!

What to find there: Pork, lamb, beef, veal, mutton, oxen (to name a few!)

Spitalfields Market

Commercial Street, E1

Nearest Tube: Liverpool Street

Open: Mon-Fri & Sun - 11am - 3:30pm

This has to be the most popular market in East London. Its history is fascinating - it was the site where Jack the Ripper's first victim was found and it was also a famous duelling ground where lots of blood was shed.

The market was set up in 1638 when King Charles granted a license for "flesh, fawn and roots" to be sold at the, then called, Spittle Fields. That market was destroyed in the Great Fire in 1666 but was founded again in 1856 by Richard Horner, who worked his way up from a market porter to buy the site and watch it grow.

After the fruit and vegetable stalls moved on in 1991, you were left with what you have now - a unique, trendy, vast (in size and variety) market. What to find there: Bespoke tailoring, new designers, shoes, hand-crafted cards and photo albums/books, antique stalls, flowers, plants and toys.

Whitechapel Market

Whitechapel Road, E1

Nearest Tube: Whitechapel

Open: Mon-Sat - 8-6pm

The road gets its name because it led to the white chapel of St Mary Matfelon, which was constructed in white stone in 1250.

This was also the area where Jack the Ripper committed his murders, in 1888, killing at least six prostitutes over four months. Despite its interesting history, the market is quite mundane and cheap.

If you want everyday practical items, this is probably the best place to go. A stall selling eastern fashions and another selling hair accessories are quite interesting.

What to find there: Sari fabrics, eastern silk fashions, western fashions, fish, bedding, carpets, electrical goods, hair accessories and jewellery.